Everybody has heard of The Coorong. It’s a perennial talisman for conservationists, supporters of the Murray-Darling Basin scheme and an internationally recognised National Park. The Coorong is a sliver of coastline running from west of Kingston SE to the mouth of the Murray, a distance of some 194klm’s.
Now I’m sure the wildlife think its heaven on a stick, 194 klm’s of impenetrable coastal heath and towering sand dunes giving them more shelter and protection than you could imagine. Unfortunately, that makes it not so user friendly for RV owners, especially the eastern end of the Coorong National Park. There’s not a lot to see from the road, and not a lot of opportunity to get close to the waterways. While campers are well catered for, it’s almost a yeah-nup for anyone with a decent sized van. While we were at the Granites, we took a run down the Old Coorong Rd for a squiz. Thirty clicks later we re-emerged onto the highway and were seriously wondering what the fuss was all about -a couple of salt lakes and lots of that impenetrable heath. Still, as they say,never judge a book……
42 mile Crossing is a National Parks site, consisting of two large campgrounds for RV’s of all sizes. Easy in and out, the sites are un-allocated, which in layman’s terms means first in best dressed. Now, this site is not on the beach, although you can hear the ocean. That previous sentence came back to haunt us as we walked the 1.5 klm track to the beach. We were SURE that the ocean was just over that next dune, but it never was, like a cruel audio mirage. In our darkest moments we contemplated this track was just an elaborate hoax and that we’d end up back where we were started…none the wetter. Luckily, the swim in the crystal clear waters made the effort totally worthwhile and the walk back DID seem a lot shorter.
The next day, we were on the road again, still looking for this Coorong phenomena. Finally, just past Policemans Point, the Coorong opens up to a series of lakes and sweeping sand dunes – not that there’s anywhere to stop and appreciate the view. Parnarka Point does however give you a chance to experience the best the Coorong has to offer. The road in seems harmless, but the million tiny corrugations in the road surface will dislodge fillings at anything over 15klm. Makes for a long drive in dear readers. Some Einstein decided to build the facilities at the lookout on the point, which, of course, was no-where near our campsite – an 800 metre trudge or sprint depending.
To understand the essence of the Coorong system, it’s what you see and hear from the lookout that reveals the reason for the protection and the rhythm of nature here. Bird calls OTHER than the urban maggies and galahs and yet, mere side notes to the overall quiet and tranquility.
On the way back from an early morning photo shoot, I spied what appeared to be a beer bottle well up from the high water mark. It was full of sand (and ants, which we found out later) with unusual markings and wording. Tamika was onto Google straight away. Turns out it was a whiskey bottle from the Adelaide Bottle Co-Operative Company Limited. A dealer confirmed it was made around 1942. The mystery remains not so much how it got there (now THAT’S a blank sheet for a good writer), but how no-one else picked it up for a very long time. I mean, it LOOKED old…..Anyway, it’s buried treasure to us. All that’s missing is a map inside.
Another “rattling good time” saw us back on the highway the next day heading for Murray Bridge. We had been burning through our internet and Tamika decided it was time to get serious. I had used up half my monthly allowance in 2 days watching the cricket on KAYO. Television reception was problematical more times than not and, after all, how’s a girl to binge watch on a rainy day? Can’t argue with that logic…would you?
Loving these anecdotal stories…….and LOVE that bottle treasure!!!