Lucky I’m not writing this on first impressions, but more on Mallacoota shortly. I spent an extra day at Cann River as the rain had set in for the day and with a badly bruised toe (don’t ask), laying around was what the doctor WOULD have proscribed. I was thinking of putting together an article for On The Road RV and, as contact points with the actual coast are few, Point Hicks was a logical starting point, especially with the promise of a lighthouse. Hopefully more than a stocking filler. Turned out to be a lot less. Only after 15klm of good dirt road, the sign at the T-junction clearly said, Point Hicks Light Station -CLOSED. Now normally I’d take that as a dare, but seeing that gates were being used, didn’t want to find myself trapped and pointing the wrong way. As events later that day would show, I’m nothing if not inconsistent. 
The sign pointing in the opposite direction pointed to Peachtree Creek Campground. It was only because I didn’t want to come away empty handed, that I pursued this particular line of enquiry. There was indeed a campground a further 10klm on the shores of Tamboon Inlet – not for the big rigs but if you’re towing a dinky camper trailer with a tinny strapped to the roof, looks like heaven on a stick. Satisfied, I doubled back to Cann River, took a right, and headed to Mallacoota.
Mallacoota can best be likened to a gated community – for RV’s. Three different caravan parks embrace the entire foreshores of the township, and all Mallacoota has to offer is only a short walk away from any of them. The sting in the tail however is if your not prepared to be funneled into one of these three, your options are almost nil. A road heading south along the coast looked promising, especially when the Vic Parks, Have You Booked Your Site? sign loomed up on the side of the road. This, in all my experience meant that there were actual campsites. Unfortunately, the fine print was referring to the nearby Old Coast Rd Walking Track that runs for 20klm back to Point Conran. Secret Beach was no more than a lure to trap unsuspecting van owners to a dead end. It was ugly dear readers. Both the front of the Jeep and the back of the van went bush in a 10 point turn, only made possible by an extra set if eyes who followed me into this hell hole, anticipating a tragedy or a good laugh or both. Pics would have been sensational, but in this kind of situation, secondary considerations never seem to get a run (unless you have a perverse travelling companion).
I was almost tempted to write Mallacoota off for free camping, but made the extra effort to check out some beaches closer to town, Betka River Reserve and Betka Beach. Nice spots but still no place to sleep.
I did however notice a Plan B on my way back in from Secret Beach and, as it turned out by late afternoon, it had become my Plan A. So, a quiet night, near the airport, at the end of the Wilderness Coast adventure, but looking forward to a complete change of scenery. Tomorrow I’m heading up the Monaro Highway to Cooma then taking the Alpine Way through the Snowy Mountains and beyond.
