Now, it’s not like I didn’t think this through. I’d let the water tanks run down to reduce the weight of the van. I practiced my low range driving and put on my Slow But Sure cap. As I sat at quietly at Dead Horse Gap, I was steeling my nerves while taking in the view. My prep was interrupted by a visiting guy from Switzerland, who, as you would imagine, only sees the mountain tops covered in year round snow. He was thrilled to see the naked ridges and crags of the Snowy Mountains – go figure people. I even waved him though so as not to have him stuck behind me on the way down.
Being a Monday, I pretty much had the Alpine Way to myself. The descent was varying but relentless. We’re talking about 14klms worth. Even though I was mostly in second gear, frequently touching the brakes was necessary just to keep second gear from jumping into third. About two thirds of the way down, there was THAT smell. Immediately I’m looking for somewhere to pull over. Luckily I didn’t have to wait long. So, I’m standing in the brilliant sunshine watching entrails of grey smoke drift upwards from all four wheel arches. Mmmmm…It took me a few minutes to figure out that having the handbrake full on, probably wasn’t helping. More Mmmmm… After about ten minutes, the smoking ceremony was over and I thought it prudent to make as cuppa and wait a bit.
Mercifully the descent bottomed out a few minutes back into the journey and it seemed the worst was over. Yeah, right. Two dimensional maps are no help in mountainous terrain. Sure enough, a climb more daunting than the road into the Snowy Mountains ensued. The narrow valley floor dropped out of sight and the mountain peaks hove back into view. I looked back over my shoulder, askance at my cavalier attitude to a down hill run any skier would have thought twice about. The curves and gear changes were relentless and it became a fight to the proverbial, even turning down a famous lookout so as not to give the mountains any opportunity to flip this adventure on its side. Not a white knuckle ride, but gritty. Thankfully the engine was at it’s best behavior, quickly forgiving extended runs in low gear, as onwards and upwards we went. Of course what goes up…… Another extended downhill run, but blind curves kept the gears busy as I tried to avoid a smokey encore.
Finally, I burst clear of the forest canopy only a few clicks shy of Khancoban and arrived somewhat stressed but relieved. “You were brave” said the caravan park owner with a smidge of admiration. It had been a difficult challenge, these Snowy Mountains and I was looking forward to a coupe of easy days before climbing back up to Omeo in the Victorian high country. And, just this once, disaster would happen around me and not to me, but more about that next time.
EXCITING NEWS!!
Before you leave this page, please go to The Choice Is Yours and click on any state. You will we see that we have re-designed the directory and now it is a lot easier to find a destination, especially for first-timers who have been referred to the site for specific location information. It will also make you more confident to refer friends and/or potential travelers. All suggestions for future changes welcome!