Naturally in Boulia

Ten days in Birdsville went by quick enough I’d spent the last three nights free camping with the town in sight and now it was time to hit the road again. The goal was Mount Isa, the Shangri-la of shopping in north-west Queensland. My fridge was becoming an echo chamber. The run to Bedourie was only supposed to be 190klms, but the main road had been washed out near Cuttaburra for five months, necessitating a 70klm detour around the back end of Lake Machattie. Still, as long as the road is good, it’s all an adventure – it’s just time. The meandering sand dunes meant an undulating road over numerous crests and floodways.

Bidourie had a few surprises in store, but first things first, a place to stop overnight. I spied a couple of vans parked next to a billabong just out of town. One of those “if it looks to good to be true’, as the a very polite cattle station hand, pointed out that the other vans belonged to workers and, being on what was ostensibly private property, I would need to vacate. Mmmmmm. Regional airports are always a good bet and mostly a discreet distance out of town. Only the early departure of a Cessna disturbed a good nights sleep.

For a small town, Bidourie punches above it’s weight. The Aquatic Centre was great, not just because of the hot spa, but the main pool was also artesian assisted. All you can prune for only $10.00. The other treat was the Bidourie Roadhouse. Not only was the diesel price plummeting, but they stocked fresh milk, sourdough bread and stir-fry vegies – everything I needed to get to Mt Isa.

As I headed north the next day, the sand dunes drifted further to my left and on my right, the shimmering haze of the plains made a surprise return. It was already early afternoon, on the lookout for a lookout, recommended by a fellow traveler back in Bedourie. Given the terrain, any elevation would be easy to spot. I had been seduced by Deon’s Lookout and was hoping for a similar experience. The turnoff loomed up after about 80klms, as did this doom laden warning sign. But there it was, Vaughan Johnson Lookout, right there. After Dead Horse Gap, how hard could it be? Well, you know how this ends…..

As you can see, completely different to Leon’s Lookout, but no less spectacular. And as still and quiet as you could imagine. Void of any sound. The emptiness that they talk about. A beautiful sunny afternoon. It’s hard to put into words what it feels like to be a part of this landscape. No-one else ventured up that climb in the entire time I was there. I made good use of the fireplace in the twilight and watched a perfect night sky unfold. An experience best shared, I’m sure.

Life on the road is not all tea and toast in bed, and a brunch start to the day. With a vista like this, I was compelled to ‘leap’ out of bed well before sunrise and watch the start of a new day. Just one baleful howl of a dingo somewhere off to the left and a lone currawong arcing overhead. In the distance I could swear a Min-Min light was dancing in the distance. The fact that I later discovered that it was somewhere close to the Diamantina National Park Ranger Station, 15klms away, is an ‘alternative fact’ I choose to ignore for now.

I can paint you a picture, but I can’t paint you the feeling. Sometimes you just have to experience something like this yourself.

After such an enforced early rise and full of some kind of fulfillment, I rejoined the highway early and continued north towards Boulia. At some point, on a sweeping bend three disparate signs flashed past. That ‘point’ turned out to be The Tropic of Capricorn. Undecided for a split second, but then a rest stop loomed up almost immediately. Meant to be, I thought. Enough room to U-turn and trundle back for the obligatory pose.

Boulia arrived an hour later and I was soon heading for the free camp reserve behind the racecourse. It was almost empty when I arrived, but filled up steadily during the afternoon. Boulia is the home of the Min-Min lights, and they even have a Min-Min Centre, complete with animatronics theatre. A bit to see, including ghost gums for the first time and some unexpected visitors roll into town.