Cape York – Cooktown to Weipa

So, it was decided. It was ‘on’! We left the Lions Den the next morning for a twenty minute drive into Cooktown, just for a look around. A true town (2 pubs), steeped in history as an enforced lay-up by Captain Cook and the Endeavour. The prawn trawlers are based here and had we more time, might have loitered around the wharves on the incoming tide.

Our true destination was a sight unseen but recommended caravan park called Endeavour Falls in between Cook Town and Hopevale. This was to be our way point while we girded our loins for the run north. We had both concluded that one van and one four wheel drive would be sufficient (no prize for guessing which one). This entailed the mass transfer of provisions and worldly possessions between the vans. The inside of mine looked like a campers yard sale as we were transferred weight as well. Took a half a day, but at a steady pace.

There was some rain predicted in the next seven days and being unknown territory, I drew up Plans A, B and C. Plan A -we made it, Plan B – we didn’t make it but saw stuff, Plan C – we won’t talk of this again. The road up is a mix of black top and red dirt. The longest leg was 255klm’s and the shortest, 42klms. We set off the next morning and it wasn’t long before we hit dirt on Battlecamp Rd.

The novelty of creek crossings was still ‘a thing’, but I’ll try not to fall into the trap of mentioning every single one. Isabella Falls is the only croc free swimming hole around Hopevale and locals flock here. The road was in excellent condition. We were making a beeline for Old Laura Station, a bit of history on the cape. We were steadily climbing up into the ranges and arrived about two hours later.

There’s a detailed history on the walls of the homestead, but the interior has been fenced off. The mango trees were struggling under the weight of all the green fruit. Maybe when we’re back this way in a few weeks time, they’ll be ready. After leaving Old Laura Station we headed for the main road north, the Peninsula Development Road, or the ‘PDR’, for short.

Pleasantly surprised to find bitumen in front of us and it went for a long time. But, as you know, all good things…….. Finally, in the distance, we saw the unmistakable swirl of red dust – road trains. This, was where the rubber hit the dirt. Progress slowed.

To make things even more interesting, a plume of black smoke appeared on the horizon and despite our best entreaties, the road was determined to take us there. luckily, a scrub fires bark is worse than it’s bite and while we passed right through it, no real threat to life and limb.

There are a series of roadhouses along the PDR and we eventually arrived at our first – Musgrave Roadhouse at Yarrenden. Thirty eight degrees and nary a tree in sight, we parked up with no 240v and spent most of the afternoon cowering under the wide verandahs of the roadhouse, especially since the internet only worked there. During the early evening ,we were accosted by a man looking for a lift north, trying to get back to Loyalty Beach, at the tip of Cape York. But this was no mere itinerant down on his luck. Our erstwhile lift was Byron, an experienced tour guide in Cape York, whose mate’s car had broken down in Cooktown on the way back from a festival. Well, talk about win-win!!

What Byron didn’t know about the cape wasn’t worth knowing. We spent the next leg to Archer Roadhouse soaking it up like sponges. We went from newbies to know-alls in a day. Where to stay, where to fish, what bird is that and fun facts about termites(more on that later). We stopped for a cuppa at Coen. Ken had lost power to the Engel fridge and his CB, so he had the local auto-elec take a look it. looks like a relay needs replacing, but parts only at Weipa.

While Ken was under the bonnet, I wandered up the street to meet a small group of Koori men leaving their Yarning Circle, purpose built and beautifully laid out. Each totem represents a clan in the area. A great bunch of guys.

Archer River Roadhouse was somewhat of an improvement with plenty of shade and green grass. There was a lot of birdlife in the trees that lulled us to sleep, but became an annoying alarm clock in the morning.

We had to leave Byron to find his way home, on a promise that he would be our unofficial tour guide when we reached the tip in about 10 days time. He was heading due north and we were heading to the western side of the cape – Weipa.

Weipa is the largest reserve of bauxite in the world employing hundreds of workers, so we were hoping the road would be in good nick, and basically it was. More tar than not this time, but the closer we got to town, the ruttier the dirt sections became.

Overall, still a good run into town. We’re going to have to stay an extra day for the spare part. This time, a powered site for five nights. Hope the air-con can handle it!